Bagan: The City of The Enemy Crusher

After taking a nap and grabbing breakfast at the hostel, we were ready at 9:00am to start our adventures in Bagan.  We had read the Lonely Planet Guide book (or should I say – the illegal version we downloaded from the internet and printed!) and they recommended horse carts as the best means to see all of the pagodas.  We arranged with Zolack and his horse Bo Bo to spend the day exploring the pagodas and seeing the sights.  

BAGAN!

The ruins of Bagan, a city formally titled Arimaddanapura (the City of the Enemy Crusher), cover an area of 16 square miles.  The majority of its buildings were built in the 11th century to 13th century, during the time Bagan was the capital of the First Burmese Empire.  

The most interesting fact: “Due to the earthquake in 1975, there are only 2,217 pagodas left in Bagan, in contrast to more than 5,000 during height of the political centre.”  So, although these pictures cannot possibly capture the 2,200+ pagodas that are left, can you imagine what it would have been like with over 5,000?!

Suba and I taking in the view from the top of one of the 2,217 pagodas in Bagan!

 One common misconception is that Bagan is advertised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  Although an application was submitted, UNESCO does not designate Bagan as a World Heritage Site mainly because the military junta (SPDC) has haphazardly restored ancient stupas, temples and buildings, ignoring original architectural styles and using modern materials which bear little or no resemblance to the original designs. The junta has also established a golf course, a paved highway, and built a 200-foot (61 meter) watchtower in the area which certainly doesn’t assume ancient traditions and culture!

I’m not really sure how I can describe Bagan.  It is like gathering all of Europe’s medieval cathedrals in Manhattan, throw in a bunch more, sprinkle some gold over it, and you start to get a sense of the massive temple-filled plains of Bagan.

I can’t tell you how many we went to – I lost count after fifteen.  Each one was different, massive in size, and had unique architecture and stone carvings in the walls.  While we were thankful for our Lonely Planet guide because obtaining information in Myanmar is extremely difficult (most probably the most difficult country I have ever travelled before), we didn’t want to do everything by the book.  One thing that made “Ashley and Suba’s Adventure Guidebook” was taking a nap on the cliffs of one of the pagodas with a beautiful view and breeze.  Lonely Planet should add this as a ‘Should Not Be Missed’ attraction if you ask me!

We sat on top of another pagoda at dusk, and watched the sun set over the tops of hundreds of pagodas.  The scale was absolutely breathtaking.

Downtown Yangon

As we groggily walked upstairs for breakfast in the hostel, a cheery woman in the kitchen smiled and said, “Merry Christmas!”  Crap – I forgot.  Suba and I looked at each other and laughed.  I couldn’t help but smile inside as I thought of a much younger Ashley who used to set her alarm at 6am (but didn’t sleep the night before anyhow) and anxiously bounded into her parent’s room to announce (to the WORLD) that it was Christmas.  Who knew fifteen years later I would FORGET the holiday.

We went shopping with Phoo today and gosh did I have fun.  We were looking for a top to match the longyis we bought the day before with Ei Ei.  Phoo took us all around Yangon in search of the perfect blouse – and, to say the least, we had a blast.

MAIDS representing in downtown Yangon

Phoo, her boyfriend, Suba, and I met up with another classmate of ours Harry, who arrived earlier that day on a flight from Bangkok.  We ate a delicious noodle soup lunch together, and I tried my first avocado milkshake.  Coming from the States, where everything “California Style” simply means ‘with avocado’ I was surprised I had never tried one of these before.  It was DELICIOUS.

We then slowly made our way to the bus station to begin the next leg of our journey…but of course, we first did a drive-by of the U.S. Embassy and The Lady’s NLD house.  The Lady’s house was enormous, but even larger – was the U.S. Embassy compound – it was gigantic.  What was incredibly disappointing however, was the lack of friendliness at the American Embassy.  As we slowly drove by, guards came out with guns and demanded we keep moving.  I don’t know what I would do if anything happened to me in Myanmar – because my own country’s embassy is barricaded like a fort and no one can enter!  I guess I expected nothing less but it was sad to see my country’s “relations” so barred.

We arrived at the bus stop where Phoo nicely drove us, and loaded into the back of pick-up flat bed trucks.  I joked with Suba that I hoped this wasn’t the bus – but the joke became rather unfortunate as we did spend about two hours driving outside of town to get to the Yangon bus stop.  The uninviting seats on the bus never looked so comfortable after spending two hours sitting on wood with metal bars in your back!   

City living in Yangon

14 hours later, after several freezing moments battling the bus air conditioning, we arrived in Bagan…at 4:30am.  As we groggily got into our horse cart (SO COOL) to go to the hostel, we passed monk after monk after monk, going to collect alms in the morning.  Although I was tired and honestly just wanted a bed – I was really happy to be able to see them.  At 4:30am, it was incredibly quiet and peaceful and watching the monks walk along the streets collecting alms was very special.

Shwe means GOLD! Shwedagon Pagoda, Yangon

Suba, Phoo and I at the Shwedagon Pagoda in Yangon

After we checked into our hotel, showered, napped and recovered, we met another classmate Phoo and her boyfriend to try and schedule our trip.  We organized bus tickets, instituted a potential itinerary, called several hostels in the area, and booked the first leg of our trip.  After we got the logistics out of the way, we had a delicious dinner, walked around Inya lake admiring the sunset, and went to Shwedagon Pagoda.  

According to historical record, the Shwedagon Pagoda is over 2500 years old since BC 588 making it the oldest Pagoda and the most ancient historical Pagoda in both Myanmar and in the world.  In truth, this 2500 year old testament to religious faith is the very heart and soul of Myamar.  Every good Buddhist tries to make at least one pilgrimage here in their lifetime.  The compound houses 83 buildings, temples and pagodas.  Over the years, the zedi (stupa) has grown to 98 m tall and has reportedly accumulated more than 53 metric tons of gold leaf.  The top of the spire is encrusted with more than 5000 diamonds and 2000 other stones.

Candles lit at the pagoda

You could see it from miles away.  GOLD.  Phoo explained that during the day, it is mainly filled with tour groups, but at night, it is really reserved for locals.  As we entered the massive compound, I quickly realized I stood out like a sore thumb (when do I not stick out these days?!) and became very self-conscious of my surroundings.  We were perhaps the only tourists in the entire compound – and it was very apparent that the place was still in good use by the local people.  Phoo and her boyfriend took us around the enormous complex – explaining its history and letting us admire every piece of architecture, gold and decor it had to offer.  I would highly recommend coming at night as it was beautiful to see such a colossal pagoda being used by so many people.  I have felt, for example, at the Grand Palace in Bangkok, that it really is not utilized for more than trapping tourists.  Here – it was wonderful to see such wide-spread use out of a beautiful structure.

Insaene Township: Ei Ei’s Village

Laundry hanging to dry in Ei Ei's backyard

As the taxi pulled up to Ei Ei’s village, there were groups of children playing games, puppies stumbling about, and chickens fluttering everywhere.  I sat there for a moment and thought, “Wow, this is a part of Myanmar I never would have been able to see if it weren’t for Ei Ei.”

We dropped off our stuff and immediately walked around town in search of a longyi.  Ei Ei was the maid of honor in her friend’s wedding later that week and she graciously invited us to come with her.  Suba and I of course wanted to look the part – and needed to buy a longyi for the ceremony!

Ei Ei is Karen (Kayin) – one of the 136 documented ethnic groups in Myanmar.  Her town was mainly Karen, and Ei Ei explained to us that the longyis that we purchased from her village were also Karen-styled longyis.  We met her entire family, I chased some of the dogs around the yard, met the family pig (which later became the main Christmas dish the next day for the entire village :( and wandered around.

Pillow game where you try to knock your opponent off the bamboo stick

The highlight of the village was the annual Christmas Eve games.  We watched different games – my favorite being the one pictured below.  Two people sat hoisted on a bamboo stick.  They had to keep their feet and hands off the ground and off the bamboo bar.  They each had a feather pillow and would hit each other until one person fell off or put their hands/feet down.  I thought it looked like harmless fun and was nearly coerced into a game myself – when I saw one person fall OFF the bamboo log.  She fell smack on the ground on her face!  I decided I would stick to observer status and cheering squad supporter rather than attempt that.   

They really did climb all the way up there!

The most impressive game was the climbing of a greased bamboo pole that all of the local teenage boys participated in.  We watched them climb on top of each other and use immense strength to climb up a slick bamboo pole, only to topple down on one another seconds later.  The game that appeared to be the most fun – was the football match between the older, married women in the village against the young, single teenage women.  Barefoot and in longyis, they squealed and screamed all over the field, laughing and having fun.

As we drove away from Ei Ei’s village, I knew this was something I would never forget.  The laughter, the games, and the honest fun that we had was something I hadn’t experienced in a while.  I was so honored to be a part of her family and both Suba and I, who were feeling rather homesick around the holidays, really enjoyed spending time with her family and neighbors. 

Burma or Bust!

Our plane to Yangon from Bangkok!

On December 24^th, I got on a plane with one of my friends from Chula, and together, Suba and I ventured into the unknown…MYANMAR.

I had no idea what to expect, but on the plane, I was extremely excited.  Perhaps it is because I am drawn to corrupt governments with well-kept secrets and my curiosity got the better of me.  But mainly, it was because I have five amazing classmates in my program from Myanmar and I had heard so much about their country – I wanted to see it for myself!

 As we got off the train I held my breath going through immigration.  We flew with one of our classmates Ei Ei, who took us straight to her village from the airport.  It was 8am.  I had stayed up late the night before opening presents with my family over Skype, and woke up at 4am for transportation to the airport.  I was tired.  But the minute we exited the terminal and headed for the highway, I couldn’t peel my face away from the window.  As we putted along the road, I began to become increasingly aware of my surroundings.  I was in a taxi that was a 1967 Chinese sedan whose air conditioning came through the open holes in the metal floor of the car.  I didn’t have glass in my window and wondered what happened when it rained.  As I looked out the open space, I saw many many people – both men and women all wearing longyis.  For me, I hadn’t really seen many pictures of what Myanmar looked like and didn’t know exactly what to expect – mainly because they have kept such a tight watch over the circulated information about the country.  So this was ALL new for me. 

I have seen poverty first hand many times before but coming from Bangkok – which was less than a one-hour flight from Yangon, I did NOT expect to see this kind of poverty in the middle of the main city.  It is difficult to describe, but I felt as though I had just taken a shuttle bus back in time.  Everything appeared ancient and almost as though people were stuck in the 1940s.  Typically, in countries, you see massive amounts of poverty in contrast to massive amounts of wealth.  While we certainly saw our fair share of mansions belonging to Ambassadors along Inya Lake – there wasn’t nearly as much of a contrast in wealth as I expected.  For example – the nicest cars that were driven around town were 2002 Toyota Corolla’s and once we were even lucky enough to see a 2000 Volkswagen yellow Beetle.  But there were no classy Mercedes Benz, BMWs or other luxury cars in sight.  It was as though we time-travelled back in time to a much earlier era.

Downtown Yangon

In Bangkok, most poor people have carts that they push all around the city – selling food, clothing, or other household items.  Here, the same people, in the market selling their produce and goods, didn’t have carts.  They carry everything.  We passed women carrying over 40 pounds of oranges on their heads and men with massive buckets shuffling along in the crowd.

I looked at Suba and I said, “This sure isn’t a vacation – this is an ADVENTURE!”

Holiday Greetings and Happy New Year!

2011 marked a year of new adventures, new faces, and new beginnings.

In August 2011, I packed up my little apartment in Manhattan, handed in my resignation letter to the United Nations, and took a giant leap of faith…on an airplane Bangkok-bound.  Several layovers, continents and time zones later, I found myself (extremely jetlagged) in Asia for the first time in my life.

I was awarded the Rotary Ambassadorial Scholarship for the 2011-2012 academic year to travel to my first choice institution, Chulalongkorn University in Bangkok, Thailand to pursue my Master’s in International Development.  

My class is the most diverse and unique group of people I have ever encountered in my life.  There are 25 of us who represent 19 countries from around the world: Cambodia, Laos, Myanmar, Thailand, Canada, Germany, Colombia, Indonesia, Japan, Bhutan, Taiwan…and so many more!  The group is an overwhelmingly accomplished bunch with backgrounds in non-profit, business marketing, city planning, military, medicine, government affairs, and more.  I have learned a ton from my classmates already and greatly look forward to our year together.

In my three short months here – I have done more than I ever imagined.  I have zip lined through rain forests in the North, bathed elephants, cheered for Thailand in a World Cup qualifier match, spent a night sleeping out with a Hill Tribe, and attended an ASEAN Post-Summit meeting.  I have awakened my senses by sampling every curry, papaya salad and Pad See Ew dish in town and have lost my sense of direction in massive street bazaars, decadent festivals and aesthetically striking flower markets.  I have broadened my horizons and enjoyed all that Buddhism has to offer – with beautiful temples, traditions and teachings.  Just a few days ago, I even got to see His Majesty the King and the entire Royal Family process through the streets of Bangkok on the way to H.M.’s 84^th birthday celebration.

I am learning so much culturally and academically each and every day I often wonder if my brain will explode!  I am surrounded by extraordinarily intelligent and interesting individuals that challenge my learning in new ways each and every day.  This year, I am thankful for my friends and family at home – who have supported me on this amazing adventure from the beginning.  I am also grateful for my new friends and family here in Thailand and cannot wait for the next year of adventures together.  And I am most thankful to Rotary International and Foster City – who, without their help, love and support, I never would find myself celebrating the New Year at a traditional Karen wedding…in MYANMAR!

I am wishing you and your families a wonderful holiday season and Happy 2012!!!

Lots of love from Thailand (and Myanmar!)

Ashley              

Newest ASEAN Basketball League groupie

It’s official.  Within less than ten minutes of being at the stadium – I knew I was already a groupie.  Suba, Intan and I went to the ASEAN Basketball League (ABL) fundraiser for the Thai Floods.  The professional basketball teams from ASEAN were competing in a friendly match to raise money for flood victims while promoting the start of their season in January, 2012.

Suba, Intan and I with #14 from To Be Number One Thailand

We donated 100 baht (about $3 USD) and walked into the arena.  The arena was fairly large, but what was incredible – were that there were seats, RIGHT IN THE FRONT.  I shook my head in disbelief, remembering how much court-side seats would cost me in the US, and sprinted towards the open chairs.  We watched several games – Saigon Heat vs. Indonesia Warriors, To Be Number One Thailand vs. Singapore Slingers, and for the finals – two Filipino teams; San Miguel Beerman vs. AirAsia Philippine Patriots.  Suba told me to prepare for smaller basketball players, stating the well-known fact that Asians aren’t as tall as “Westerners.”  However, as we walked into the stadium – I could not get over HOW TALL these players were.  Perhaps it is just because I have never had court-side seats before and been SO close ;) but they were MASSIVE.

It took us a VERY long time to realize Thailand's team had identical twins!

The best part of the evening (besides the three thrillingly close games that we witnessed), was that walking around the stadium looking for food, Intan spotted her favorite basketball star from her country (Indonesia) – Mario.  He was wandering around the food level of the stadium with headphones on after pulling through in the last few seconds to beat Vietnam.  Intan approached him and asked to take a picture with him – to which he happily agreed.  Then – he began a conversation with us, asked us where we were from, why we were all together in Bangkok, etc.  Next thing we know, ESPN is in our face with cameras, lights are flashing, and Mario coolly says, “Oh yeah – you guys will be on ESPN.”  

Two GIANT players from AirAsia Philippines!

 After wandering around the stadium, meeting more star pros and taking pictures, I quickly decided that I was the newest official ABL groupie.  I greatly look forward to seeing the first game of the season in Bangkok on January 14^th!