Saturday, April 28, 2012

Songkran Super Soaker


After our first day of WATER!
 Who says you are too old for a water fight?!  

Songkran is celebrated in Thailand as the traditional New Year's Day from 13 to 15 April - the hottest time of the year in Thailand, at the end of the dry season. Songkran is the BIGGEST water fight I have ever witnessed – and was even voted one of Lonely Planet’s Top Ten Festivals in the World. 
We chose to go to Chiang Mai to celebrate due to the rumored hype we had heard from the small town in the north.  Sitting through 12 hours of traffic, eight of my classmates and I braved the bus ride up to the north to witness the largest water fight in the world.  

Chiang Mai is a unique city – in that there is one part – the old city, that is contained by a moat (yes – WATER) with which the surrounding city has overgrown.  Every year during Songkran, the moat is overflowed with water, and everyone comes out to play for the holiday.
And when I mean everyone, I mean EVERYONE - from toddlers to grandparents, every family member comes out to get a splash of the action.  As we anxiously awoke to our early morning alarms at 8am on our first day off in months, we squealed as we put on our waterproof shorts and swim suits – anticipating a sprinkling.  Our first priority was to buy water guns, and we had already staked out the place to buy some on the street just next to our hostel.  As we walked outside we began gleefully talking about what to expect, how wet do you think we would get, how crazy it was all going to be…within ten feet of our apartment, as we were babbling away – a hose went off.  Within seconds and steps from our apartment, we were head to toe soaked.  We all looked at each other, smiled and shrieked, “This is awesome.”  Running down the street to get to our water guns was like running through a pit of hungry alligators – everyone was desperate to get you.  And the worst part was it didn’t matter that we were completely drenched and couldn’t absorb one more bit of water – bucket after bucket kept coming.  As we picked out our neon water guns and filled up the canisters, we assessed the battle zone.

The chaos in Chiang Mai
The weaponry
On each side of the moat were one way streets – going in opposite directions.  Flatbed trucks were inching along in the traffic – with entire families piled in the back.  As we walked over towards the commotion, Suba screamed, “Incomingggg.”  The next thing I knew - Freezing cold water, from head to toe.  It was well over 39 C that day – and yet water had never felt so COLD.  As I looked up to see my attacker, I saw an old woman giving me a toothless grin.  She couldn’t have been younger than 85 and I looked at her shocked and puzzled trying to comprehend if this old lady really had been ‘the enemy.’  She answered my question shortly following and clarified my doubts that a woman her age would participate in such an ‘immature’ water fight – by soaking me again with another bucket.  Her aim was flawless and as I looked up and saw her smile again, I couldn’t help but laugh.  

The old people were by far the worst – they showed no mercy.  After spending nearly 6 hours out in the hot sun playing with the water, we went back to our hostel, showered, took naps, and got ready to go out for dinner.  As we peeked out of the corner of our hostel, our small alley street looked clear.  We tip-toed down the street, getting more and more confident that the water fights had stopped – it was nearly 7pm after all.  As we made it around the last corner, that same hose got us again.  We all screamed.  And with that, we announced our arrival onto the main road, where countless water guns and pails welcomed us on our way to dinner.  Suba and I questioned why we bothered changing and vowed next time to come more prepared – with water guns of our own.  This fighting, splashing, soaking and screaming went on…for three straight days.
 
Songkran was a great reminder for me, about the importance of family, and the enjoyment of light-hearted FUN.  It has been quite a while since I had a water fight, and never have I had one of that magnitude.  You found yourself smiling with total strangers, being ambushed by four year olds (incredible ambush if I might add), and being soaked by grandparents.  

Riding in the back of a pick up truck during Songkran...
On our last day of the festival, we even got our dream – our hostel manager was going out in his truck with his family and invited us to come along.  As we piled into the car with his dad, mom, sisters, nieces and nephews, we began to pump ourselves up for the fight.  As each pail hit our car – we squealed, screamed and shouted.  And as I sat in that truck, smiling and shivering next to one of his four-year old girls on the way home, I realized that fun transpires all translation, and Thailand sure knew how to have FUN.

Sunday, April 15, 2012

An Evening with The Phantom



On 5 April 2012, Megumi and I were treated to the Rotary Bangkok Evening Concert, which was a night to remember.  Theatre is something I dearly miss from New York City, and is near impossible to find here in Bangkok.  But on Thursday, April 5th, my dreams were answered.  In a special tribute to His Majesty, the Mahidol Philharmonic Orchestra played two sets of music – the first, a collection of His Majesty’s favorites, which mainly comprised of jazz and saxophone – two of His Majesty’s favorites.  The second half, were songs from Phantom of the Opera.

Rotary International Ice Sculpture!!!
As Megumi and I sat in the audience, stuffed from the most amazing buffet of our lives (including pumpkin risotto, fresh cut sashimi, shumai, gyoza, pork buns, sausage, fish, lamb and more) I had goose bumps listening to the very young and talented voices from Mahidol University sing my favorite songs from one of my favorite musicals.

Monday, April 9, 2012

Mai Chau Village



For me personally, visiting the Mai Chau village and sleeping overnight in a local guesthouse, was by far the highlight of our field trip.  While Hanoi was nice, escaping the loud motorbikes and noisy street sounds the countryside with rolling bright green rice patties, local people and real Vietnamese flavor was unparalleled.
  
Viet Nam Propaganda Posters in Mai Chau
Of course, my interest in the village is linked closely to my thesis – in promoting “pro-poor tourism” in which the local people administer and host visitors.  By doing this, one can ensure that profits from tourism remain in local hands, and that the tourism is friendly, environmentally safe, and peaceful in not disturbing the local way of life.  Mai Chau village is an excellent example of a successful pro-poor tourism project.  We stayed in a local guesthouse, owned and operated by a White Thai Vietnamese family who had been renting the property (in Vietnam, you cannot “own” land – it belongs to the people collectively) for over one-hundred years, the food was all grown and prepared locally on farms in the village, and the souvenirs we purchased were made right there in the village.  We drank local rice wine instead of imported beer, and supported the local arts by attending a dance performance by the village dance group.
Oi and I walking around the rice patties in Mai Chau

Going to bed at 9pm after dinner because there was no light was a reminder to me to be thankful for the things I have, and to never take anything for granted.  Waking up to a gorgeous sunrise peeking over the green lush rice covered mountains was an acknowledgement towards nature and its overwhelming beauty.  And wandering around the village and seeing children running, skipping and squealing barefoot with dogs barking close in tow reminded me that regardless of your political, economic or social background, giggles are just as cute (if not cuter) 10,000 miles away from home as they are back in California.

Coming Face to Face with Uncle Minh


Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum
 As we stood outside in line, miles away from the mausoleum, in between thousands of Vietnamese tourists, I couldn’t understand.  As I unwillingly handed my camera over to the guards and watched my small purse go through metal detectors twice, I thought that this security was a little extreme given what was being protected.  This is because I assumed that what I would find in that Mausoleum was simply a dead body.

Saluting Uncle Ho Chi Minh
After standing in the early morning heat with thousands of other eager (and pushy I might add!) tourists, children on fieldtrip, and Vietnamese tour groups, we entered the concrete shrine.  As I climbed the steps with each stair dropping another 5 degrees in temperature, I suddenly became aware of my surroundings.  Total silence.  All hats had been removed, all sunglasses taken off, and the pushing suddenly subsided.  Like the day I waited eight hours in the hot sun to see His Majesty, I quickly realized soon after I entered the building that this mausoleum was much more than a simple grave.  As I rounded the corner and set eyes on Ho Chi Minh, the entire history of the country flashed in my face.   He looked just like the famous propaganda posters with his perfect beard and balding head – regally resting with four guards at each corner where he lay.  The father of a country, the brother of a revolution – here lies the man that changed it all, and is eternally worshiped for his contributions to his country.

While the overwhelming reverence of the revolutionary was at times eerie, I couldn’t help but feel sorry for Ho Chi Minh.  He wrote in his last will and testament that he be cremated with his ashes spread over the country, yet the government has denied him this wish and here he lies, encapsulated in a glass box, for all to see.  I couldn’t help but feel a strong sense of him not wanting this immense concrete shrine and endless adoration and he seemed stuck in time, preserved, and trapped.

Hello, Hanoi!


Colorful shoes line the streets of Hanoi
With another early morning flight, we said goodbye to Saigon and headed to Hanoi to meet the rest of our classmates who arrived at the same time from Bangkok.  We wasted no time hurriedly checking into the hotel (the plush Hoa Binh I might add!) and rushed off to our first meeting with the Thai Ambassador.

I have included our itinerary in the outline below, because it is something I felt was incredibly well-planned and gives a fantastic overview about what we did here while on ‘field trip.’  While I won’t be able to detail every meeting and excursion – I will certainly do my best to provide the highlights!


ITINERARY FOR VIETNAM FIELD TRIP 2012
Carolina, Phoo Phoo and I outside Ho Chi Minh's Mausoleum


Monday 26 March 2012: Orientation in Hanoi
4:00 AM Depart Bangkok for Hanoi
10:30 AM Arrive at hotel and rest
11:30 AM Lunch
1:20 - 2:20 PM Visit to Thai Embassy
2:20 - 6:00 PM City Tour of Central Hanoi
6:00 - 7:00 PM Reflection on group exercise
Evening  Welcome Dinner together

The best find in the whole city - Kebab sandwiches for $1
 
Tuesday 27 March 2012: Understanding Development in Vietnam
7:00 AM Breakfast at hotel
8:00 - 9:30 AM Visit the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum
9:30 - 11:30 AM Visit the Ho Chi Minh Museum
11:30 - 1:00 PM Lunch
1:00 - 2:30 PM Meeting with Asian Development Bank
3:00 - 4:30 PM Meeting with "Pan Nature" on role of civil society in Vietnam
5:30 - 6:30 PM Group reflection on "Development in Vietnam"
Evening Free time in Hanoi - dinner on own


With Vietnamese soldiers outside Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum

Wednesday 28 March 2012: Hoa Binh Dam
7:00 AM Breakfast at hotel
8:00 Depart for Hoa Binh Dam
10:30 AM Arrive at Hoa Binh Dam
12:00 Lunch
Afternoon Visit Mi and Thia villages, Yeh Mong community
5:00 PM Depart for guesthouse in Mai Chau district
6:00 - 7:00 PM Group reflection on "Development in Vietnam"
Evening Dinner together

Sampling delicious rice wine in Mai Chau village

Thursday 29 March 2012: Ethnicity and Development in Vietnam
7:00 AM Breakfast at guesthouse
8:00 - 9:00 AM Meet with local government agency about ecotourism
9:30 AM - 11:00 AM "Free time" which became a climb up the mountain!
11:30 Lunch with community
1:00 - 3:00 PM Meeting with communities in Mai Chau district
3:30 PM Reflection and Depart for Hanoi
6:30 PM Arrive in Hanoi
Evening Dinner with friends in Hanoi




Hiking up and down a mountain in Mai Chau

Friday 30 March 2012: Orientation in Hanoi
7:00 AM Breakfast at hotel
9:00 Meet with "Action for the City" NGO - urban challenges
12:00 - 1:00 PM Lunch
Afternoon Meet with Vietnam National University
Afternoon Visit the Temple of Literature "Van Mieu Quoc Tu Giam"
5:30 PM - 6:30 PM Final reflection
7:00 PM Dinner together

Ho Chi Minh Statue near Hoa Binh Dam
Saturday 31 March 2012: Orientation in Hanoi
6:00 AM Breakfast at hotel
7:00 Depart for Halong Bay
11:00 AM Arrive at Halong Bay - cruise
5:00 - 5:30 PM Leave Halong Bay
8:30 PM Final Dinner together - Korean BBQ!


Halong Bay

Sunday 1 April 2012: Orientation in Hanoi
6:00 AM Depart for airport - fly back to BKK

Black, Pitch Black: Cu Chi Tunnels


Cao Dai Temple - we made it just in time for noon service!
Today was also a super cool day – mainly because I got to crawl around the Cu Chi tunnels that the Vietnamese used during the Vietnam War.  This was something I had wanted to do for a very long time, and after a three hour bus ride, I got to go into the pitch dark…

The gates of Cao Dai Temple
Caro and I signed up for a one day outing to the beautiful Cao Dai temple and the Cu Chi tunnels.  As we got closer to Cu Chi – I realized how excited I was.  These tunnels were credited with the “winning of the Vietnam War” from the American perspective.  Americans portrayed these tunnels as barbaric, Spartan and unconventional war-like tactics that the Viet Cong guerrillas used as hiding spots during combat.  But what they failed to mention, is that these tunnels were multi-leveled, complex underground villages that served not only as hiding spots, but as communication and supply routes, hospitals, food and weapon caches and living quarters for numerous Viet kong soldiers and their families. 
Ready to go into my first Cu Chi tunnel!

As we began walking, our guide pointed out the trap door to enter the tunnels – despite my efforts of freakishly searching the ground looking for trap doors, I couldn’t see it.  One security officer demonstrated how to enter and exit the tunnel and our guide of course asked if anyone wanted to try for themselves.  I was itching to go, but tried to keep my cool.  Of course, without even asking, Carolina had already grabbed my purse and camera and gave me a look like, “Well, this is why we are here and what you have wanted to do this whole trip – what are you waiting for?!”  I eagerly inched down the tunnel, securely placed the trap door lid over my head, and tried to adjust to what I was seeing – which was nothing because it was pitch black.  And HOT.  My gosh was it hot.  I thought going underground meant that it was cooler earth – but I was seriously mistaken.  I began to inch down the tunnel crawling on all fours, when people began screaming up above.  Apparently – this tunnel was not the one we were supposed to crawl through – and there were many animals that lived in this one (i.e. not friendly ones such as scorpions!).  My guide was “kidding” when he told me to “take a walk around and explore” however, I of course took this literally.
You can't see me!

We saw the booby traps that the Viet Kong made for their American enemies – yikes these were gruesome.  Spears as long as my leg and pits as deep as twelve feet, I decided this was certainly not a way I would like to go.

Coming OUT of the tunnel and complaining about how HOT it was!
We did get to crawl through a tunnel later – a 120 meter tunnel.  Again – I was super excited.  Caro came with me on this one and the two of us set off in the black.  What I didn’t realize of course, were how SMALL these tunnels were, and you couldn’t stand or hunch over but literally had to crawl and squat on your back legs, teetering down the corridor.  We got to a point where a security guard said, “Do you want to keep going or get out?”  I was sweating – more than I had sweat working out in Bangkok, it was dark, there was dust everywhere…”Of COURSE I want to keep going” – I said with a dirt-covered grin.  I kept going and heard Carolina ask the guard, “Well how much more can there be?”  And all I heard was laughter.  If it weren’t for the four-year old girl who went in before us, I’m not sure I would have been able to complete the 120 meter walk.  My legs were burning, I was covered in dirt, and worst of all – I was sweating uncontrollably!  120 meters has never felt so long, scary or hot!




I am so happy and fortunate to have witnessed the famous tunnels first-hand, and would highly recommend you put them on your trip to Vietnam!