His Majesty: The King of Thailand



His Majesty, King of Thailand

From the moment I landed in the airport, I saw a familiar face greeting me.  Decked out in yellow, His Majesty greeted me upon arrival in Thailand in a gigantic oil painting at my terminal and two more big photographs by the time I walked to baggage claim.  Driving from the airport to the hotel I saw at least ten more well-lit (because I came in at nearly 1am) shrines to the King.  His face is on every Thai baht bill (and my first reaction was, “Wow, he was really handsome”) and Thai people worship the ground he walks.  I have to say, after only being here for one week, I have an immense respect and appreciation for the King – in part, because all of the people around me do, and in part, because I think he has an incredibly difficult career, and I think he has done an excellent job of handling his responsibility.

The King is not only Thailand’s longest reigning monarch – but the longest reigning monarch in the world.  Born in Boston, Massachusetts in 1927 while his father Prince Mahidol was studying medicine at Harvard, Bhumibol Adulyadej ascended to the throne in 1946 (at the very young age of 19). 

Picture of King and Queen at my University - Chulalongkorn

In the past several months, it was reported that the King was very sick (although many Thai people today adamantly reassure me that he is OK now) and many stipulate as to who his successor will be.  Because I was coming to Thailand, I followed American coverage of the subject prior to my arrival, which reported that the Crown Prince Maha Vajiralongkorn would take over – hence his title of “Crown Prince.”  However, upon arriving in Thailand, I have learned that this is not necessarily the case, for this is also a Crown Princess - Maha Chakri Sirindhorn. 

Crown Prince Maha Vajiralongkorn

Many Thai people do not like the Crown Prince.  He is currently on his third wife, and apparently lives a very promiscuous lifestyle.  Many worry that if in power, he will abuse his privileges and ignore important issues at hand.  I was aware of this prior to entering the country however; I can say after having several conversations about this with different people, I was not aware as to how much the Crown Prince was disliked.  What American media failed to cover however (and I am upset to learn this) is the work of the Crown Princess.  Crown Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn has spent her entire life emulating the work of her father.  She is worshipped by Thai people and well respected. 

Crown Princess Maha Shakri Sirindhorn

SO – unlike what American media portrays, there is no definitive answer as to who will take the throne.  The King himself will choose a successor when it is time, and until then, it is all speculation.  Thailand has never had a Queen rule the monarchy and I think this would be an amazing and exciting accomplishment for women worldwide.  Thailand has always set the standards of tolerance and acceptance in all of South-east Asia, and I think this would be another perfect opportunity and example for Asia.  However, the Crown Princess does not have any offspring – and this is a huge concern.  Without children, she does not have anyone to pass the monarchy on to – and many Thais believe this could be the reason she is not chosen to succeed her father.

The Crown Princess handing out food to flood victims just last week

Fish and Life

Jitt letting her fish go in the pond

Today, after seeing the spectacular Sanctuary of Truth and Buddha Mountain we went to a pond in the Chinese section of Pattaya.  My friend Jitt explained a tradition that she practices once a month.  Every month, on a Saturday (the day she was born), she returns to the same pond and brings with her ten fish that she bought from a nearby market.   These fish (including catfish and eel) are normally cooked for a meal, but Jitt rescues them from the market, brings them in a bucket, and releases them into the pond.  She explained that this ritual is her way of giving thanks to Buddha for her life, and the blessings she has had in life.  By releasing these fish, she is giving life, while thanking Buddha for her own. 

I thought this was an incredibly creative, unique and beautiful way to give thanks.

The Sanctuary of Truth: Birthdays in Buddhism

Sanctuary of Truth - made entirely out of wood!

As you can tell most likely by now through my writing, I am incredibly fascinated with the Buddhist culture.  It is unlike anything I have ever been exposed to, and here in Thailand, with over 94% of the country practicing Buddhism, there is ample opportunity to explore this religion. 

Today I visited the Sanctuary of Truth – which is an incredibly large structure made entirely out of teak wood.  A strange fusion of religion, philosophy, art and culture, it's neither a temple, nor palace 'even though it looks a bit like a hybrid of both.  Best described as a monument to Thai craftsmanship, and a place to reflect, its awe-inspiring wooden sculptures and carvings pays homage to and is a reflection of the “Ancient Vision of Earth', “Ancient Knowledge” and “Eastern Philosophy.'

While in the Sanctuary of Truth - I learned something very important in Buddhist culture, and incredibly interesting.  In Buddhism, it is incredibly important to know the day of the week that you were born.  The day of the week signifies your character, your profession, your lucky and unlucky days/colors of the week, and your Buddha pose.

Jitt and I outside the Sanctuary of Truth

Below you will find the seven days of the week (If you were born on Wednesday, you need to know what time, as there is a “morning” and “night” version) and what each birth date means in Thai culture.  In case you want a little extra luck and need to know what color to wear to an exam, or what day you should schedule an interview, you might want to reference this first ;)

MONDAY (yellow)

Character: good memory, serious, love to travel
Optimum profession: trader, doctor, nurse, fisherman
Very lucky day/color: Saturday / black
Unlucky day/color: Sunday / orange
Buddha image: Pang Ham Yath, making peace

TUESDAY (pink)

Character: brave, active, broad and serious mind
Optimum profession: policeman, soldier, chemist, cook, hairdresser
Very lucky day/color: Thursday / yellow
Unlucky day/color: Monday / white
Buddha image: Pang Sai Yas, reclining

WEDNESDAY (Day) (Green)

Character : ambitious, gregarious, fun loving
Optimum profession : banker, singer, musician, artist, designer
Very lucky day/color : Wednesday (night) / light green
Unlucky day/color : Tuesday / pink
Buddha image for Wednesday (daytime): Pang Um Baatr, holding the alms-bowl

WEDNESDAY (Night) (Light Green)

Character: hard working, diligent, honest
Optimum profession: writer, poet, doctor, scientist, actor, archaeologist
Very lucky day/color: Monday / white
Unlucky day/color: Thursday / yellow
Buddha image for Wednesday (night): Pang Par Lelai, the blessed one

THURSDAY (Orange)

Character: good heart, graceful, tranquil, honest
Optimum profession: judge, lawyer, teacher, clergyman
Very lucky day/color: Sunday/orange
Unlucky day/color: Saturday/black
Buddha image for Thursday: Pang Samah Thi, meditation

FRIDAY (Blue)
Character: ambitious, gregarious, fun loving
Optimum profession: banker, singer, musician, artist, designer
Very lucky day/color: Tuesday / pink
Unlucky day/color: Wednesday (night) / light green
Buddha image: Pang Ram Pueng, contemplation

SATURDAY (Purple)
Character: logical, tranquil, reclusive
Optimum profession: agriculturist, constructor, miner, bailiff
Very lucky day/color: Friday / blue
Unlucky day/color: Wednesday (day) / green
Buddha image for Saturday: Pang Naga Prok, protection

SUNDAY (Red)
Character: respectable, carefree, wise, and beloved by both friends and relatives
Optimum profession: manager, official, doctor, trader, craftsman
Very lucky day/color: Wednesday / green
Unlucky day/color: Friday / blue
Buddha image: Pang Tawai Natra, restraint

From Orgasms to Imodium – Various Reactions to Thai Food

King:  You will order the finest gold chopsticks.
Anna:  Your Majesty, chopsticks? Don't you think knives and forks would be more suitable?
King:  I make mistake, the British not scientific enough to know how to use chopsticks.

Mmmmm...Tom Yum soup :)

First of all, I should make the disclaimer that prior to coming to Thailand, Thai food was my favorite cuisine back at home.  I knew every Thai restaurant in New York City and if you gave me a specific dish, I could direct you to the best one in all of Manhattan.  So I was anxious to see if Thai food in the US compared to Thai food in Thailand (or should I just say “Food in Thailand?!”).

Fish Panang Curry...my favorite!

From the minute I arrived, I was in awe of the masses of food carts that lined the streets, blocking traffic and causing chaos to the already crowded markets in downtown Bangkok.  I was a little shy to approach a stall at first – in part because I didn’t speak the language, and in part because I didn’t know what I was eating, but in the end I decided that life is too short and one should explore!

So while I may not be able to tell you what all I ate, I can tell you it was DELICIOUS.  Orgasmic some might say.  The unique flavors and delicious spices in American Thai food are only brought out more here in Thailand – to utter perfection. 

Traditional Thai dessert - Noodles over ice...it was delicious!

At this point in time – I would just like to give a shout out to my stomach and digestive system.  I have not had any issues (yet – I don’t want to jinx this!) but I have heard some pretty miserable experiences.  Thank you for being such a champ and absorbing all that spice like a pro.

Meeting Buddha

Blessings with Lotus Flower

Buddhism is incredibly important in Thailand, with over 94% of the country practicing Buddhism. When walking around downtown Bangkok, you can see shrines and miniature temples for Buddha at just about every hotel, store and street corner. 

Emerald Buddha (even though it's really Jade!)

But there are some Buddhas that appear to be more important (or shall I say, “more visited”) than others…and I got to meet two of these Buddhas today.

The first, was in the Grand Palace, and is known as the Emerald Buddha (Wat Phra Kaew). It is one of the most venerated sights in all of Thailand where people convene to pay respect to the Lord Buddha and His Teachings. This Buddha is carved from a single block of jade and he changes costumes depending on the three seasons (summer, rainy and “winter” seasons). His Majesty the King changes these costumes himself three times a year.

Reclining Buddha

The second Buddha that I met was the Reclining Buddha, which was at Wat Pho. Wat Pho boasts the oldest and largest wat in Bangkok; the longest reclining Buddha and the largest collection of Buddha images in Thailand; and the country’s first public education institution. At 46 m (150 feet) long and 15 m (49 feet) high…he was pretty big.

Shall We Dance? Dreams of Grandeur: Grand Palace



The Grand Palace et cetera, et cetera, et cetera!

After arriving at the Grand Palace, my Dad and I do something we normally never do: we PAID to have a tour guide. On every family vacation, we would bring along a trusty guide book (Rick Steve’s of course, our favorite!) and do a “Pritchard Self-Guided Tour.” But our friends highly suggested a tour guide and for about $10, you could rent a great English-speaking tour guide, to take you around the temples and palaces for about two hours. So we found Sunny – an 80 year old Thai man who spoke great English, idolized Mick Jagger, and knew enough history about the palace I wondered if he was around at the time it was built (in 1782).

Phra Siratana Chedi

Sunny told us all about the various temples, towers, and history behind this spectacular place. My Dad and I commented to one another that we both have seen some pretty awesome “castles” (The Alhambra in Grenada and Buckingham Palace in London just to name a few) but none could match to the impressive usage of gold and prestige like this one. Most castles tend to over-do themselves to the point where it is dripping in riches, overwhelming and not attractive – however, the way the Thais built these monuments and the Grand Palace is truly impressive. The usage of gold is not overdone, but gorgeous, and the amount of detail is unbelievable.

Not too get all tour-booky on you, but the Grand Palace consists of an area of 218,000 square meters (2,346,532 square feet) and was constructed in 1782 – so this stuff has been around for a while and still manages to sparkle!

My favorite, of course, were the Thai Guardian Demons, which I loved from The King and I, one of my favorite musicals of all time. They were exactly like I pictured them, but ten-times bigger and I just couldn’t help but smile and have my first reality check:

Wow, I’m REALLY here, this is another world.

Lost in Translation: Taxi Troubles

My Dad was in town for a long weekend and after I had spent five unsuccessful days looking for housing and he had spent several long business days in Singapore, we decided it was time for a little sightseeing in Bangkok.  We chose to see the Grand Palace and were told a taxi was the easiest way to get there…

We hail a cab, get in, and say “Grand Palace Please.”  The driver looks at me blankly, so I try to say it again slower, “Pal-ace?”  Nope, nothing.  I try drawing a palace out with my hands – “Big Palace.”  Nada.  Ok, Plan B – a picture.  I point to a picture in the palace and think (Phew I’m so glad I brought this tour book!).  The driver still looks at me and says “I don’t know.”  Shit.  My Dad and I look at each other – he is flustering through the tourist hotel map we had been given and I’m fishing through the tour book trying to find some other description or some name in Thai.  FINALLY we find a translation and the taxi driver says “AH, OK.”

Typical Bangkok Traffic - but you can pick out those pink cabs anywhere!

The language barrier has been far more difficult than anything I have experienced before.  I was told “Not to worry – plenty of Thais speak English over there!” however, upon arriving here and spending the first week, I can tell you, I have not found these bi-lingual Thais!  Everything has been an incredible struggle – from obtaining directions, to ordering food (even when pointing at pictures) to checking into my hotel.  It is only a greater encouragement for me to learn Thai!

P.S.  I failed to mention…taxis in Thailand are HOT PINK.   

From Africa to Asia - Curiosity Never Dies

When I was younger in Africa, kids would run for MILES just to touch Kate and my blonde hair.  Kate and I thought they were crazy and a little rude to start grabbing our hair, but our parents explained this was something they had never seen before and they were just excited...

Well, yesterday, I was coming back from Chula, and I saw an elephant...walking down the middle of the highway.  He was walking along cars, buses, taxis, motorbikes were zipping in and out...I have always had this passion for elephants and think they are beautiful creatures, but I kept telling myself I would have to wait a while before I saw one, because they live more up north way outside the city. Never in my wildest dreams did I think I would see an elephant walking down the highway next to cars, buses, and tuk tuks.

I don't know what came over me, but I just started RUNNING towards this elephant, just like those little kids in Africa.  Thankfully, the owner/driver was nice, he could see I was mesmerized, and he stopped and let me pet his elephant.  It was by far, the coolest thing I have ever done :)

 This elephant obviously wasn't the one I saw on the road, but I did see him a few days later and couldn't resist posting these pictures ;)

First Glimpse of Bangkok

After a 17 minute connection to make my flight from Beijing to Bangkok (with lots of chaos running through security with Immigration shouting at us in Chinese), another 5 hour flight and two lost bags, I am in Bangkok. My host Rotarian picked me up at the airport and was incredibly nice. Driving through Bangkok to the hotel, I had my face pressed against the glass, trying to see the tops of the amazing brand new skyscrapers equip with neon lights that surrounded the area and lit up the sky.

Night Sky in Bangkok

I check into the hotel, drop my backpack in the doorway from exhaustion (at this point it is 1:45 am Thailand time and I have been travelling now for over 22 hours and several time zones), and run straight to the panoramic window on the 27^th floor of the hotel that overlooks the Bangkok skyline.

J They say Thailand is the Land of One Thousand Smiles…and if this is true, then tonight there are 1001 big big smiles J

Time Travel: Chasing the Sun

So to keep track of time (and to save my brain from doing the math calculations between time zones), I decided to leave my wristwatch on California time. That way, I can gauge how far we’d gone and how much more flying we had to do to with minimal math.

Below is an account of my first leg: from SFO to PEK. We left SFO at 2:50 pm and it is roughly a 14 hour flight to Beijing.

2:47 pm – We've closed the plane door and have pulled out of the gate. We are now sitting on the runway. I was in such a haze of excitement getting on the plane I barely checked my surroundings until after I was seated. This plane is entirely full of Asians except for me and two others…

I got to know these two very well over the next 14 hours. For some reason, most likely because

they felt out of their comfort zones being on a plane entirely made up of Asians, they both felt the need to introduce themselves, share their story, and inquire about mine.

The first was a 30 year old guy, in a built body of a 20 year old, with the maturity of a 10 year old. He was wearing a SF Giants cap, cut off t-shirt, backwards sunglasses on his head (just in case it gets too bright while flying), board shorts, flip flops, and…a passport holder around his neck…oy. He is with his Chinese wife meeting his in-laws…for the first time (they have been married three years). He has never flown before and somehow decided this 14 hour flight was an ample opportunity to get his wings. He is two Valiums in and shouting across the plane at me, “Aren’t you scared?!”

The American on my right is also nervous – I quickly learn it is his first international flight, so already I am feeling much better about my ability to fly sitting with these two. He said his girlfriend was teaching English in Laos so he was going over there to live with her for 10 months and his photography could support the both of them. Wow – I thought, photographer and adventurous - “Do you have a brother?!” Then it comes up casually that the two have known each other for less than a month and have dated for about two weeks…yikes.

Mmmm ok so I’m between two American guys on an otherwise entirely Asian plane, one is about to meet the in-laws for the first time (did I mention they don’t speak ANY English?!) and the other is moving across the world for a girl he has known less than three weeks. They both are terrified of flying and as we take off, both have white knuckles from gripping the seats.

I couldn’t feel more confident about my adventures at this point.

My gigantic Air China plane!

3:37 pm: I wave goodbye to San Francisco, windsurfers and all, and take out my three Thai travel books to start dreaming about my possibilities when I step off this airplane...

4:14 pm: I wake up to food.3:38 pm: I’m asleep.

4:37 pm: I get up, walk around the plane and think, OK this is going great. I decide to play that game where you try to see how long you can go without looking at your watch…I think, I can for sure make it till at least 10:00 pm without checking the time. I have tons of travel books and reading material, snacks (like I would go ANYWHERE without them), and I have the experience of traveling longer flights than this one, so this should be a piece of cake. Especially seeing the two basket-cases around me – where at this point, Mr. Board shorts has his headphones on and is attempting to repeat, out loud, horrific pronunciations from his Rosetta Stone CD.

Another walk to the bathroom, lap around the plane…Ok let me just peek at my watch. 5:30 pm. Shit.

More reading, more note taking on how to orient myself and avoid “Culture Shock.” One book down, moving on to book #2…

…I try to sleep but I can’t. I get to the point where I am narrating my own plot to the Chinese action kung-fu movie on TV.

Ok, just one more peek at my watch. 7:27 pm…Screw this, I’m taking a sleeping pill.

Next thing I know, the stewardess is shaking me saying, “Wake up! We are in Beijing!”