Myanmar has Serious Salesmen and Women in the Making

Nyaung U Early Morning Market

On our second day in Bagan, we again rented a horse cart, but decided to deter away from more pagodas.  While they are beautiful – we certainly saw quite a few the day prior, and wanted to see a different part of the city.  We saw a monastery with monks who lived in caves, the local the big Shwezigon Paya gold pagoda, and a local village.

Brings a whole new meaning to the term "Doggie Bag." Too Cute!

One thing Suba and I made a point to see – were the tourists that were entering Myanmar!  It is eerie to wander around the city, as there are some tourists, but not nearly the numbers that you would expect.  Furthermore, most of the tourists in town are all on organized tour groups and don’t detour more than three feet from the tour guide holding the bright yellow flag or big umbrella.  So when you venture off the beaten path – it can seem eerily quiet, empty and barren.  We made a point to see the luxurious resorts in Bagan – analyzing every swimming pool and villa and we even decided to wait for the luxury liner ferry boat from Mandalay…just to watch rich tourists lug their huge suitcases off the boat, get into their plush minivans, and drive away.

  

It cannot go without mention that while Myanmar has a long way to go in improving their tourism industry – they certainly have salesmen that will be able to handle the job once the infrastructure is set in place.  In Myanmar – because the government has such tight control over virtually everything, both internet and advertising are controlled, making it very difficult to promote certain tourism businesses and due to the lack of tourists and demand at the moment, it is unreasonable to attempt to fund such a business.  Yet – in the past few months, since Hillary Clinton’s visit to Myanmar (with many other Heads of State following soon-after), there has been a surge in tourism.  I do not suspect it will be long before tourism agencies spring up all over Myanmar (which is why Suba and I were so anxious to get here before!) and I think the industry will experience significant growth.  

Applying Thankaka - local Myanmar makeup

If I were in charge of a tourism business in Myanmar, I would go to the pagodas and hire some of the young boys and girls selling postcards – they were outstanding.  And when I say outstanding – I mean, I even learned a few tricks from them!  Their English was impressive, and they tried every angle to get you to buy silly postcards of the pagodas.  But didn’t matter what they were selling – it was the way in which they sold things.  They would ask you where you were from, and when Suba and I thought we were being sneaky by saying a different country, they would rattle off sentences in whatever language we stupidly pretended to understand.  We heard Myanmar people speaking perfect German, French, Spanish, Japanese, Chinese and more.  I had some children tell me that “You should write your mother” or “Your grandmother would appreciate this bracelet” or “Not everyone can see Myanmar – but this is a great opportunity to share your experiences with them through picture postcards.” 

The most ingenious one however, was that, in order to enter the pagodas, you have to take off your shoes – and you simply leave them on the side.  A few young women, without us knowing, took our shoes and tactfully placed them in front of their shop.  When we came back after climbing the pagoda – they were waiting for us. “Ah, Miss, did you like the pagoda?  Here – I have protected your shoes for you.  Please, look at my shop.”  While Suba and I were very poor students with a very tight budget and had no problem saying no, we quickly could tell how many other tourists fell for these traps, and learned how successful these salesmen and women really were!

Offerings for Buddha at his feet of one pagoda

Bagan: The City of The Enemy Crusher

After taking a nap and grabbing breakfast at the hostel, we were ready at 9:00am to start our adventures in Bagan.  We had read the Lonely Planet Guide book (or should I say – the illegal version we downloaded from the internet and printed!) and they recommended horse carts as the best means to see all of the pagodas.  We arranged with Zolack and his horse Bo Bo to spend the day exploring the pagodas and seeing the sights.  

BAGAN!

The ruins of Bagan, a city formally titled Arimaddanapura (the City of the Enemy Crusher), cover an area of 16 square miles.  The majority of its buildings were built in the 11th century to 13th century, during the time Bagan was the capital of the First Burmese Empire.  

The most interesting fact: “Due to the earthquake in 1975, there are only 2,217 pagodas left in Bagan, in contrast to more than 5,000 during height of the political centre.”  So, although these pictures cannot possibly capture the 2,200+ pagodas that are left, can you imagine what it would have been like with over 5,000?!

Suba and I taking in the view from the top of one of the 2,217 pagodas in Bagan!

 One common misconception is that Bagan is advertised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  Although an application was submitted, UNESCO does not designate Bagan as a World Heritage Site mainly because the military junta (SPDC) has haphazardly restored ancient stupas, temples and buildings, ignoring original architectural styles and using modern materials which bear little or no resemblance to the original designs. The junta has also established a golf course, a paved highway, and built a 200-foot (61 meter) watchtower in the area which certainly doesn’t assume ancient traditions and culture!

I’m not really sure how I can describe Bagan.  It is like gathering all of Europe’s medieval cathedrals in Manhattan, throw in a bunch more, sprinkle some gold over it, and you start to get a sense of the massive temple-filled plains of Bagan.

I can’t tell you how many we went to – I lost count after fifteen.  Each one was different, massive in size, and had unique architecture and stone carvings in the walls.  While we were thankful for our Lonely Planet guide because obtaining information in Myanmar is extremely difficult (most probably the most difficult country I have ever travelled before), we didn’t want to do everything by the book.  One thing that made “Ashley and Suba’s Adventure Guidebook” was taking a nap on the cliffs of one of the pagodas with a beautiful view and breeze.  Lonely Planet should add this as a ‘Should Not Be Missed’ attraction if you ask me!

We sat on top of another pagoda at dusk, and watched the sun set over the tops of hundreds of pagodas.  The scale was absolutely breathtaking.

Downtown Yangon

As we groggily walked upstairs for breakfast in the hostel, a cheery woman in the kitchen smiled and said, “Merry Christmas!”  Crap – I forgot.  Suba and I looked at each other and laughed.  I couldn’t help but smile inside as I thought of a much younger Ashley who used to set her alarm at 6am (but didn’t sleep the night before anyhow) and anxiously bounded into her parent’s room to announce (to the WORLD) that it was Christmas.  Who knew fifteen years later I would FORGET the holiday.

We went shopping with Phoo today and gosh did I have fun.  We were looking for a top to match the longyis we bought the day before with Ei Ei.  Phoo took us all around Yangon in search of the perfect blouse – and, to say the least, we had a blast.

MAIDS representing in downtown Yangon

Phoo, her boyfriend, Suba, and I met up with another classmate of ours Harry, who arrived earlier that day on a flight from Bangkok.  We ate a delicious noodle soup lunch together, and I tried my first avocado milkshake.  Coming from the States, where everything “California Style” simply means ‘with avocado’ I was surprised I had never tried one of these before.  It was DELICIOUS.

We then slowly made our way to the bus station to begin the next leg of our journey…but of course, we first did a drive-by of the U.S. Embassy and The Lady’s NLD house.  The Lady’s house was enormous, but even larger – was the U.S. Embassy compound – it was gigantic.  What was incredibly disappointing however, was the lack of friendliness at the American Embassy.  As we slowly drove by, guards came out with guns and demanded we keep moving.  I don’t know what I would do if anything happened to me in Myanmar – because my own country’s embassy is barricaded like a fort and no one can enter!  I guess I expected nothing less but it was sad to see my country’s “relations” so barred.

We arrived at the bus stop where Phoo nicely drove us, and loaded into the back of pick-up flat bed trucks.  I joked with Suba that I hoped this wasn’t the bus – but the joke became rather unfortunate as we did spend about two hours driving outside of town to get to the Yangon bus stop.  The uninviting seats on the bus never looked so comfortable after spending two hours sitting on wood with metal bars in your back!   

City living in Yangon

14 hours later, after several freezing moments battling the bus air conditioning, we arrived in Bagan…at 4:30am.  As we groggily got into our horse cart (SO COOL) to go to the hostel, we passed monk after monk after monk, going to collect alms in the morning.  Although I was tired and honestly just wanted a bed – I was really happy to be able to see them.  At 4:30am, it was incredibly quiet and peaceful and watching the monks walk along the streets collecting alms was very special.

Shwe means GOLD! Shwedagon Pagoda, Yangon

Suba, Phoo and I at the Shwedagon Pagoda in Yangon

After we checked into our hotel, showered, napped and recovered, we met another classmate Phoo and her boyfriend to try and schedule our trip.  We organized bus tickets, instituted a potential itinerary, called several hostels in the area, and booked the first leg of our trip.  After we got the logistics out of the way, we had a delicious dinner, walked around Inya lake admiring the sunset, and went to Shwedagon Pagoda.  

According to historical record, the Shwedagon Pagoda is over 2500 years old since BC 588 making it the oldest Pagoda and the most ancient historical Pagoda in both Myanmar and in the world.  In truth, this 2500 year old testament to religious faith is the very heart and soul of Myamar.  Every good Buddhist tries to make at least one pilgrimage here in their lifetime.  The compound houses 83 buildings, temples and pagodas.  Over the years, the zedi (stupa) has grown to 98 m tall and has reportedly accumulated more than 53 metric tons of gold leaf.  The top of the spire is encrusted with more than 5000 diamonds and 2000 other stones.

Candles lit at the pagoda

You could see it from miles away.  GOLD.  Phoo explained that during the day, it is mainly filled with tour groups, but at night, it is really reserved for locals.  As we entered the massive compound, I quickly realized I stood out like a sore thumb (when do I not stick out these days?!) and became very self-conscious of my surroundings.  We were perhaps the only tourists in the entire compound – and it was very apparent that the place was still in good use by the local people.  Phoo and her boyfriend took us around the enormous complex – explaining its history and letting us admire every piece of architecture, gold and decor it had to offer.  I would highly recommend coming at night as it was beautiful to see such a colossal pagoda being used by so many people.  I have felt, for example, at the Grand Palace in Bangkok, that it really is not utilized for more than trapping tourists.  Here – it was wonderful to see such wide-spread use out of a beautiful structure.

Insaene Township: Ei Ei’s Village

Laundry hanging to dry in Ei Ei's backyard

As the taxi pulled up to Ei Ei’s village, there were groups of children playing games, puppies stumbling about, and chickens fluttering everywhere.  I sat there for a moment and thought, “Wow, this is a part of Myanmar I never would have been able to see if it weren’t for Ei Ei.”

We dropped off our stuff and immediately walked around town in search of a longyi.  Ei Ei was the maid of honor in her friend’s wedding later that week and she graciously invited us to come with her.  Suba and I of course wanted to look the part – and needed to buy a longyi for the ceremony!

Ei Ei is Karen (Kayin) – one of the 136 documented ethnic groups in Myanmar.  Her town was mainly Karen, and Ei Ei explained to us that the longyis that we purchased from her village were also Karen-styled longyis.  We met her entire family, I chased some of the dogs around the yard, met the family pig (which later became the main Christmas dish the next day for the entire village :( and wandered around.

Pillow game where you try to knock your opponent off the bamboo stick

The highlight of the village was the annual Christmas Eve games.  We watched different games – my favorite being the one pictured below.  Two people sat hoisted on a bamboo stick.  They had to keep their feet and hands off the ground and off the bamboo bar.  They each had a feather pillow and would hit each other until one person fell off or put their hands/feet down.  I thought it looked like harmless fun and was nearly coerced into a game myself – when I saw one person fall OFF the bamboo log.  She fell smack on the ground on her face!  I decided I would stick to observer status and cheering squad supporter rather than attempt that.   

They really did climb all the way up there!

The most impressive game was the climbing of a greased bamboo pole that all of the local teenage boys participated in.  We watched them climb on top of each other and use immense strength to climb up a slick bamboo pole, only to topple down on one another seconds later.  The game that appeared to be the most fun – was the football match between the older, married women in the village against the young, single teenage women.  Barefoot and in longyis, they squealed and screamed all over the field, laughing and having fun.

As we drove away from Ei Ei’s village, I knew this was something I would never forget.  The laughter, the games, and the honest fun that we had was something I hadn’t experienced in a while.  I was so honored to be a part of her family and both Suba and I, who were feeling rather homesick around the holidays, really enjoyed spending time with her family and neighbors.