Saturday, May 12, 2012

Balancing the Scales of Justice in Mae La

We had pre-determined our research groups before we left.  The other two groups had serious focus on their theses – with some looking at displaced persons and why they decided to cross borders and others looking at the health and education systems.  I realized in the formation of the groups that I was the only one who was not writing my thesis on migration issues, and felt a little out of place…until I found my group.  They were all working on migration issues – but they were migration issues in other countries and this field research was ample practice for their theses, but in no way would this information benefit their work directly.  

I have always been a sucker for justice and was desperate to learn more about the justice system in the camps – and whether the camp is successful in keeping order over nearly 50,000 people.  A few of the other girls were interested in the religious components as well – so we morphed together our topics and decided to analyze the role of religion and women in the Mae La justice system.  I can tell you – the research we found was fascinating and unlike any other justice system I have seen in the world.

As we walked along one of the main roads in the camp towards the Justice Center, I tried to take in my surroundings.  Huge bamboo houses with porches, gardens and balconies stared back at me.  Banana leaf roofs rustled with the breeze, and the sun reflected painfully off of the sparkling clean dirt roads.  As we tried to take the back roads to see what wasn’t on the main path, we were faced with more large houses, bamboo frames perfectly aligned and banana leaves.  People walked by staring at our group of four women with notebooks, and we stared right back, admiring their perfectly ironed longyi and white pressed shirts.  Covered in sweat and dirt, and sunburned after standing in the sweltering sun for a measly ten minutes, we managed to muster our way towards the Justice Center. 

First, we went to meet with a member of the Elder Council – one of the main judges in the camp.  As we asked questions (and I had to sit on my hand to prevent myself from asking TOO many questions) I realized everything I had studied about Western democratic law – did not apply here.  For starters:

  1. They do not have codified (written) law.  There is nothing that warns or reminds the people of the law – it is customary, and said to be “understood.”
  2. Religion plays a significant role in law – even though the camp is not entirely Christian, the customary law of the camp is Karen law, meaning that Muslims and Buddhists must adhere to the same laws as Karen Christians.
  3. Precedent is not a concept utilized here.  Each case is dealt with on an independent basis, with no reference to previous cases to determine appropriate penalties for crimes committed, comparing sentencing of previous cases, etc.
  4. Judges do not have any training or experience, other than that they are “elders” and old – having witnessed several generations.  I asked if there was a balance in gender, ethnicity, or religious backgrounds and the judge said “it depends on who is elected.”  So I then proceeded to ask if there had been any women, non-Karen, or non-Christian judges…“no."
Poster Board displaying families who have been resettled to U.S.
Affairs were punishable with seven months in prison, and Karen law appropriately sentences individuals who place magic spells on others (such as a spell to kill or trick someone).  

At first glance, I was incredibly impressed.  I was amazed that the Thai people had entirely handed the justice and legal matters of the camp over to the local Burmese/Myanmar people.  The justice system, unless it needed to go to a higher level (which was at the camp level and only for the most serious crimes), was entirely run by its people – making decisions on sentencing, presiding over rulings, and guarding prisoners in the detention center.

Mae La Refugee Camp/Temporary Shelter, 25-27 April 2012


Mae La Temporary Shelter, Mae Sot, Tak Province, Thailand
To say I was excited about this trip sounds perhaps inappropriate given the nature of the visit.  Going to conduct field research in Thailand’s largest “temporary shelter” – a shelter that has been around since 1984 – seemed daunting given that there are approximately 49,000 displaced persons in the camp.  Nevertheless, the entire week prior to the trip, and the entire six hour bus ride up to Mae Sot on the border between Thailand and Myanmar – I was itching with excitement at the chance to walk around my first “refugee camp.”

I prepared myself for a difficult and emotional visit.  I expected to see hardships, trash littered dirt alleyways, bad water, smelly waste areas and those little brown innocent wide eyes that stare up at you.  When our military escort into the camp pulled up to park, I anxiously jumped out of the car.  We were told we could not take pictures and each of us had carefully listened to directions by shoving our cameras in our clothes hidden from plain sight.  

Our first stop was the Managerial Unit – where we were taken inside a room and given a debriefing of the area.  I tried to sneak around and “go to the bathroom” and investigate the things outside the arranged meeting room, but didn’t find anything.  I listened as the camp officers outlining the composition of the camp:

  • 26,822 people living in the camps, 4,583 families, are displaced directly due to conflict in Myanmar.
  • Since January 2006, a total of 31, 503 displaced individuals have been resettled in third countries, with the majority (28,482 people) being sent to the United States. 
  • On average, 70-80 babies are born each month in the camp
Although the camp had not taken new arrivals since 2007, there are individuals who return illegally – sneaking into the camp.  This creates a problem for both the camp officials and the families, as food is rationed based only on those who are registered, and as a result, should more family members sneak in unregistered – the food rations must be split unevenly between some families.  Furthermore, religion was an issue, with nearly 50% of the camp practicing Christians, 35% Buddhist and another 15% practicing Islam.  This division through religion was largely noticeable with the camp’s 59 churches, 4 temples and 5 mosques.

And with that brief introduction, we split up into our research groups, met our translators, and set out into the unknown…Mae La camp.

Saturday, April 28, 2012

Songkran Super Soaker


After our first day of WATER!
 Who says you are too old for a water fight?!  

Songkran is celebrated in Thailand as the traditional New Year's Day from 13 to 15 April - the hottest time of the year in Thailand, at the end of the dry season. Songkran is the BIGGEST water fight I have ever witnessed – and was even voted one of Lonely Planet’s Top Ten Festivals in the World. 
We chose to go to Chiang Mai to celebrate due to the rumored hype we had heard from the small town in the north.  Sitting through 12 hours of traffic, eight of my classmates and I braved the bus ride up to the north to witness the largest water fight in the world.  

Chiang Mai is a unique city – in that there is one part – the old city, that is contained by a moat (yes – WATER) with which the surrounding city has overgrown.  Every year during Songkran, the moat is overflowed with water, and everyone comes out to play for the holiday.
And when I mean everyone, I mean EVERYONE - from toddlers to grandparents, every family member comes out to get a splash of the action.  As we anxiously awoke to our early morning alarms at 8am on our first day off in months, we squealed as we put on our waterproof shorts and swim suits – anticipating a sprinkling.  Our first priority was to buy water guns, and we had already staked out the place to buy some on the street just next to our hostel.  As we walked outside we began gleefully talking about what to expect, how wet do you think we would get, how crazy it was all going to be…within ten feet of our apartment, as we were babbling away – a hose went off.  Within seconds and steps from our apartment, we were head to toe soaked.  We all looked at each other, smiled and shrieked, “This is awesome.”  Running down the street to get to our water guns was like running through a pit of hungry alligators – everyone was desperate to get you.  And the worst part was it didn’t matter that we were completely drenched and couldn’t absorb one more bit of water – bucket after bucket kept coming.  As we picked out our neon water guns and filled up the canisters, we assessed the battle zone.

The chaos in Chiang Mai
The weaponry
On each side of the moat were one way streets – going in opposite directions.  Flatbed trucks were inching along in the traffic – with entire families piled in the back.  As we walked over towards the commotion, Suba screamed, “Incomingggg.”  The next thing I knew - Freezing cold water, from head to toe.  It was well over 39 C that day – and yet water had never felt so COLD.  As I looked up to see my attacker, I saw an old woman giving me a toothless grin.  She couldn’t have been younger than 85 and I looked at her shocked and puzzled trying to comprehend if this old lady really had been ‘the enemy.’  She answered my question shortly following and clarified my doubts that a woman her age would participate in such an ‘immature’ water fight – by soaking me again with another bucket.  Her aim was flawless and as I looked up and saw her smile again, I couldn’t help but laugh.  

The old people were by far the worst – they showed no mercy.  After spending nearly 6 hours out in the hot sun playing with the water, we went back to our hostel, showered, took naps, and got ready to go out for dinner.  As we peeked out of the corner of our hostel, our small alley street looked clear.  We tip-toed down the street, getting more and more confident that the water fights had stopped – it was nearly 7pm after all.  As we made it around the last corner, that same hose got us again.  We all screamed.  And with that, we announced our arrival onto the main road, where countless water guns and pails welcomed us on our way to dinner.  Suba and I questioned why we bothered changing and vowed next time to come more prepared – with water guns of our own.  This fighting, splashing, soaking and screaming went on…for three straight days.
 
Songkran was a great reminder for me, about the importance of family, and the enjoyment of light-hearted FUN.  It has been quite a while since I had a water fight, and never have I had one of that magnitude.  You found yourself smiling with total strangers, being ambushed by four year olds (incredible ambush if I might add), and being soaked by grandparents.  

Riding in the back of a pick up truck during Songkran...
On our last day of the festival, we even got our dream – our hostel manager was going out in his truck with his family and invited us to come along.  As we piled into the car with his dad, mom, sisters, nieces and nephews, we began to pump ourselves up for the fight.  As each pail hit our car – we squealed, screamed and shouted.  And as I sat in that truck, smiling and shivering next to one of his four-year old girls on the way home, I realized that fun transpires all translation, and Thailand sure knew how to have FUN.

Sunday, April 15, 2012

An Evening with The Phantom



On 5 April 2012, Megumi and I were treated to the Rotary Bangkok Evening Concert, which was a night to remember.  Theatre is something I dearly miss from New York City, and is near impossible to find here in Bangkok.  But on Thursday, April 5th, my dreams were answered.  In a special tribute to His Majesty, the Mahidol Philharmonic Orchestra played two sets of music – the first, a collection of His Majesty’s favorites, which mainly comprised of jazz and saxophone – two of His Majesty’s favorites.  The second half, were songs from Phantom of the Opera.

Rotary International Ice Sculpture!!!
As Megumi and I sat in the audience, stuffed from the most amazing buffet of our lives (including pumpkin risotto, fresh cut sashimi, shumai, gyoza, pork buns, sausage, fish, lamb and more) I had goose bumps listening to the very young and talented voices from Mahidol University sing my favorite songs from one of my favorite musicals.

Monday, April 9, 2012

Mai Chau Village



For me personally, visiting the Mai Chau village and sleeping overnight in a local guesthouse, was by far the highlight of our field trip.  While Hanoi was nice, escaping the loud motorbikes and noisy street sounds the countryside with rolling bright green rice patties, local people and real Vietnamese flavor was unparalleled.
  
Viet Nam Propaganda Posters in Mai Chau
Of course, my interest in the village is linked closely to my thesis – in promoting “pro-poor tourism” in which the local people administer and host visitors.  By doing this, one can ensure that profits from tourism remain in local hands, and that the tourism is friendly, environmentally safe, and peaceful in not disturbing the local way of life.  Mai Chau village is an excellent example of a successful pro-poor tourism project.  We stayed in a local guesthouse, owned and operated by a White Thai Vietnamese family who had been renting the property (in Vietnam, you cannot “own” land – it belongs to the people collectively) for over one-hundred years, the food was all grown and prepared locally on farms in the village, and the souvenirs we purchased were made right there in the village.  We drank local rice wine instead of imported beer, and supported the local arts by attending a dance performance by the village dance group.
Oi and I walking around the rice patties in Mai Chau

Going to bed at 9pm after dinner because there was no light was a reminder to me to be thankful for the things I have, and to never take anything for granted.  Waking up to a gorgeous sunrise peeking over the green lush rice covered mountains was an acknowledgement towards nature and its overwhelming beauty.  And wandering around the village and seeing children running, skipping and squealing barefoot with dogs barking close in tow reminded me that regardless of your political, economic or social background, giggles are just as cute (if not cuter) 10,000 miles away from home as they are back in California.

Coming Face to Face with Uncle Minh


Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum
 As we stood outside in line, miles away from the mausoleum, in between thousands of Vietnamese tourists, I couldn’t understand.  As I unwillingly handed my camera over to the guards and watched my small purse go through metal detectors twice, I thought that this security was a little extreme given what was being protected.  This is because I assumed that what I would find in that Mausoleum was simply a dead body.

Saluting Uncle Ho Chi Minh
After standing in the early morning heat with thousands of other eager (and pushy I might add!) tourists, children on fieldtrip, and Vietnamese tour groups, we entered the concrete shrine.  As I climbed the steps with each stair dropping another 5 degrees in temperature, I suddenly became aware of my surroundings.  Total silence.  All hats had been removed, all sunglasses taken off, and the pushing suddenly subsided.  Like the day I waited eight hours in the hot sun to see His Majesty, I quickly realized soon after I entered the building that this mausoleum was much more than a simple grave.  As I rounded the corner and set eyes on Ho Chi Minh, the entire history of the country flashed in my face.   He looked just like the famous propaganda posters with his perfect beard and balding head – regally resting with four guards at each corner where he lay.  The father of a country, the brother of a revolution – here lies the man that changed it all, and is eternally worshiped for his contributions to his country.

While the overwhelming reverence of the revolutionary was at times eerie, I couldn’t help but feel sorry for Ho Chi Minh.  He wrote in his last will and testament that he be cremated with his ashes spread over the country, yet the government has denied him this wish and here he lies, encapsulated in a glass box, for all to see.  I couldn’t help but feel a strong sense of him not wanting this immense concrete shrine and endless adoration and he seemed stuck in time, preserved, and trapped.

Hello, Hanoi!


Colorful shoes line the streets of Hanoi
With another early morning flight, we said goodbye to Saigon and headed to Hanoi to meet the rest of our classmates who arrived at the same time from Bangkok.  We wasted no time hurriedly checking into the hotel (the plush Hoa Binh I might add!) and rushed off to our first meeting with the Thai Ambassador.

I have included our itinerary in the outline below, because it is something I felt was incredibly well-planned and gives a fantastic overview about what we did here while on ‘field trip.’  While I won’t be able to detail every meeting and excursion – I will certainly do my best to provide the highlights!


ITINERARY FOR VIETNAM FIELD TRIP 2012
Carolina, Phoo Phoo and I outside Ho Chi Minh's Mausoleum


Monday 26 March 2012: Orientation in Hanoi
4:00 AM Depart Bangkok for Hanoi
10:30 AM Arrive at hotel and rest
11:30 AM Lunch
1:20 - 2:20 PM Visit to Thai Embassy
2:20 - 6:00 PM City Tour of Central Hanoi
6:00 - 7:00 PM Reflection on group exercise
Evening  Welcome Dinner together

The best find in the whole city - Kebab sandwiches for $1
 
Tuesday 27 March 2012: Understanding Development in Vietnam
7:00 AM Breakfast at hotel
8:00 - 9:30 AM Visit the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum
9:30 - 11:30 AM Visit the Ho Chi Minh Museum
11:30 - 1:00 PM Lunch
1:00 - 2:30 PM Meeting with Asian Development Bank
3:00 - 4:30 PM Meeting with "Pan Nature" on role of civil society in Vietnam
5:30 - 6:30 PM Group reflection on "Development in Vietnam"
Evening Free time in Hanoi - dinner on own


With Vietnamese soldiers outside Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum

Wednesday 28 March 2012: Hoa Binh Dam
7:00 AM Breakfast at hotel
8:00 Depart for Hoa Binh Dam
10:30 AM Arrive at Hoa Binh Dam
12:00 Lunch
Afternoon Visit Mi and Thia villages, Yeh Mong community
5:00 PM Depart for guesthouse in Mai Chau district
6:00 - 7:00 PM Group reflection on "Development in Vietnam"
Evening Dinner together

Sampling delicious rice wine in Mai Chau village

Thursday 29 March 2012: Ethnicity and Development in Vietnam
7:00 AM Breakfast at guesthouse
8:00 - 9:00 AM Meet with local government agency about ecotourism
9:30 AM - 11:00 AM "Free time" which became a climb up the mountain!
11:30 Lunch with community
1:00 - 3:00 PM Meeting with communities in Mai Chau district
3:30 PM Reflection and Depart for Hanoi
6:30 PM Arrive in Hanoi
Evening Dinner with friends in Hanoi




Hiking up and down a mountain in Mai Chau

Friday 30 March 2012: Orientation in Hanoi
7:00 AM Breakfast at hotel
9:00 Meet with "Action for the City" NGO - urban challenges
12:00 - 1:00 PM Lunch
Afternoon Meet with Vietnam National University
Afternoon Visit the Temple of Literature "Van Mieu Quoc Tu Giam"
5:30 PM - 6:30 PM Final reflection
7:00 PM Dinner together

Ho Chi Minh Statue near Hoa Binh Dam
Saturday 31 March 2012: Orientation in Hanoi
6:00 AM Breakfast at hotel
7:00 Depart for Halong Bay
11:00 AM Arrive at Halong Bay - cruise
5:00 - 5:30 PM Leave Halong Bay
8:30 PM Final Dinner together - Korean BBQ!


Halong Bay

Sunday 1 April 2012: Orientation in Hanoi
6:00 AM Depart for airport - fly back to BKK